The Three Hens serving home-style American cuisine, which opened this past October, is located located in Kips Bay. I was recently invited to sample the food in this cozy restaurant with large windows facing Lexington Avenue at 28th Street.

I learned that The Three Hens supports small farm initiatives and sustainable agriculture, using fresh, local & organic ingredients whenever possible, including free-range organic chicken & eggs. We ordered a bottle of the Encender Rioja ($38) Reserva Tempranillo, 2005 Spain from the wine list as we tried to narrow down our food selections.

Instead of choosing between the many interesting appetizers, the manager suggested we sample a few. We did. And I’d suggest any of the apps we tried when you visit. As usual,  they were the best part of the meal.

I liked the peppery arugula salad, served over warm goat cheese with tart dried cherries in a balsamic vinaigrette ($12); missing, though, was the menu’s stated “tomato confit,” oddly replaced by a slice of winter tomato. Also delicious was the burrata appetizer with heirloom grape tomatoes and leaves of fresh basil, drizzled with both olive oil and balsamic vinegar ($12). A crispy 5-minute egg and smidgen of bacon (we wished there was more) was topped with a lightly dressed frisee salad and two tender fresh asparagus spears ($10). And, we had their crispy, fried chicken cut into bite-size pieces, served southern style with biscuit and gravy ($10). A few apps could serve as a meal, but we were in for the long haul.

Tenderloin of Colorado lamb was cooked medium rare and served with fried eggplant, garlic sautéed spinach, and a red pepper coulis ($24) for a lovely dish on the eyes. Less colorful, but equally as appetizing were the seared scallops served with julienned fuji apple, bacon, celery root purée and a sundried tomato vinaigrette ($21); we wished there had been more of the celery root puree, but we were so full, I don’t even know if we could’ve finished it if it was there.

– bonnie

The Three Hens
115 Lexington Ave
New York, NY
(646) 571-0367
thethreehens.com

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