Bliss is being invited to sample the cuisine at The Studio at Montage in Laguna Beach, California along with a friend and to sit at a window table overlooking the sun setting over the Pacific. With the creative food and presentations of Chef Craig Strong and the care of the exuberant staff with their detailed explanations of each dish, we had an amazing experience.
We started with Billecart-Salmon Brut Reserve ($31) champagne while deciding between the tasting menu and the à la carte offerings. Once we learned we could pick and choose to create our own tasting menu. That’s exactly what we did.
The amuse-bouche included a poached shrimp atop a sweet potato crisp topped with a fava bean puree and finished with a pinch of sweet sumac.
The buttery homemade brioche from the three bread offerings is so buttery you’ll need to wipe your hands after handling. Worth every buttery bite. Second to that are the sour dough with olives and an all-bran with raisin-sunflower seed bread served with three butters — an all-organic cow’s milk, a Meyer lemon and a summer truffle one.
Nina Elena Rosas, our sommelier, selected wine matchings with each course.
A checkerboard of yellow and red heirloom tomato salad ($25) arrived at the table followed by a server dropping 25-year old balsamic drizzled from a pipette. One corner of this delightfully refreshing dish contained a corner of dry (yes, dry) powdered olive oil that liquefies in the mouth.
We were a bit disappointed in the mock lobster bisque that we cherry-picked from the tasting menu. This very small appetizer consisted of a water-poached then butter sautéed lobster, served with lobster mushrooms and a puree of parsnips, then drizzled with a broth of actual bisque. It just didn’t live up to the captain’s mouth-watering description. But the signature item pasta did. While we were told the menu changes frequently, this Dungeness crab and cavatelli ($29) has been on the menu for at least four years. It’s that good. The ricotta pasta is light like gnocchi, sauced with a blend of stock, brown butter, citrus and the juice of the crab served with crab and a few golden tomato halves. Ethereal.
We also sampled the sautéed gnocchi with caramelized tomato, some basil topped with a Parmesan crisp and an Italian version of the Spanish Romaneso sauce, made with tomatoes, garlic, olive oil and almonds.
I’d highly recommend the perfectly cooked lamb tenderloin ($58) — the newest dish on the menu — with curried purple carrot puree, some cumin and cinnamon spiked tomato sauce, matsutake mushrooms and broccolini. Perfection indeed.
Although an amazing amalgam of flavors, the Alaskan halibut ($55) was a tad overcooked. It sat on a spread of both a cashew and an asparagus puree, and was served with some yellow and zucchini squash and asparagus. All this was then sprinkled with little bits of crunchy guanciale (pork cheek) and drizzled with a Meyer lemon vinaigrette. To be fair, once we told the captain he offered a replacement dish – but we were getting full and wanted to save room for dessert!
And so glad we saved room as the desserts shone. Don’t miss the refreshing orange crème brûlée ($15) with black tea ice cream and lemon foam and Earl Grey ice cream with bergamot. The flavors all married well. Chocolate addicts should indulge in the guanaja chocolate sphere ($15) sitting on a little chocolate tart surrounded with a foam made from Guinness beer and sea salt caramel ice cream hidden inside. When a server pours a hot chocolate and Cognac sauce it melts the sphere and the salt and sugar to meld. Divine.
They also served a plate of petits fours that included a Bordeaux confection, mango gelée, Earl Grey chocolate truffles, strawberry gelée and a coconut macaroon. We left with big smiles on our faces and a bag of candied Marcona almonds as a treat for later.
If you find yourself in the Laguna Beach area — this extraordinary dining experience is not to be missed.
– bonnie
Studio at Montage
Laguna Beach
30801 South Coast Hwy
Laguna Beach, CA 92651
(949) 715-6420
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