Lifetime Fitness recently opened on 23rd Street, allowing access to those whose insurance offers Renew Active. I put my name on the waiting list in April and recently got in.

I discussed books with the others in the women’s steam room and then moved on to dining. One new friend mentioned that one of her favorites is the Italian Malparte, a place I had neither heard of nor been to. We decided to go together.

We met at this intimate neighborhood eatery on Washington Street. We started with a bottle of their Nero D’Avola ($50) while nibbling on fresh focaccia and sliced dense bread.

I had to try their gorgonzola polenta as the thought of it caused an explosion of memories about sharing a creamy bowl of that at the bar at the original Union Square Cafe before cooking at the Beard House for my first book party for “Rice.” The taste of that ethereal dish still lingered.

In contrast, Malaparte’s polenta with gorgonzola ($14) was thick enough to be cut and served in triangles, topped with a fresh fennel sausage slab. The name evoked that memory, certainly not the flavor.

What is amazing here—my new friend’s favorite dish—and makes it worth the visit is their housemade spaghetti in an Umbrian porcini mushroom sauce ($22). I will return just for that earthy indulgence. We also shared their housemade pappardelle in a pork ragu ($23) and ended with a flourless chocolate cake ($10) with creme fraiche.

I’d recommend a visit, being sure you have the spaghetti in an Umbrian porcini mushroom sauce.

Malaparte
West Village
753 Washington St,
New York, NY 10014
(212) 255-2122
malapartenyc.com/