We met our friend, Shari Bayer, the publicist for Periyali, at the restaurant to discuss her new book, ChefWise, and sample their fare. Our host greeted me upon arrival and welcomed me to Greece, jesting, “No passport needed.“

Mak, our waiter, also welcomed us, sharing that he had been with Periyali since they opened on December 21, 1987. He recalled the exact date because it is his birthday.

I sampled their El Grego ($22), a blend of bourbon, Amaro Nonino liqueur, spiced honey and bitters. With my cocktail, we started nibbling their five mezze offerings, which are always yummy. These included their taramosalata (a fish roe spread with olive oil and lemon), the melitzanosalata (smoked eggplant), tzatziki (yogurt with cucumber & dill), fava kremidaki (yellow split peas with lemon) and Gigantes skordalia (large lima beans with garlic and herbs) all served with thin seeded pita triangles. Don’t miss.

While waiting for our food, we chatted about Shari’s book, Chefwise, offering inspiration, advice and life lessons from both in and out of the kitchen. Shari has befriended chefs worldwide through her domestic and international travels and Heritage Radio Network show. She’s interviewed about 25 of those in the book on her show, “All in the Industry.” Some of the 117 interviewed for the book include Massimo Bottura, Tom Colicchio, Nina Compton, Wylie Dufresne, Suzanne Goin, Eric Ripert, Missy Robbins, Jean-Georges Vongerichten and Alice Waters.

Mak served Periyali’s octopus ($28) next. Don’t miss this tender version of the cephalopod. I often order a larger portion as my entree. It’s that good.

We then shared their moussaka, tender layers of lamb, eggplant and bechamel served with green beans, a whole grilled bass with garlic and lemon, lemon roasted potatoes and horta, braised greens with garlic.

When presented with the dessert plate at Periyali, you choose your selection. Lucky us, since we were their guests, Mak served us the entire plateful. It included many of Periyali’s housemade desserts ($14 each): orange cake, walnut cake, baklava, honey walnut cookies, kourabiedes (sugar almond cookies) and specials.

I recommend a visit to Periyali and suggest Chefwise for a holiday gift for your favorite hostess or connoisseur.

Periyali
Gramercy-Flatiron
35 W 20th Street,
New York, NY 10011
(212) 463-7890