I had lunch at The Dining Room at The Modern recently with my financial advisors who talked money while I talked food and wine; they were though into sharing all their goodies We asked the sommelier Angelo Ingrati to match the wines with each of our courses. (Three courses, $66; four, $76; wine, per selection.)
The highly acidic but light and lemony Muscadet Sevre et Maine, Su-lie, Pierre Henri Saint-Fiacre 2012 from the Loire Valley went well with the amuse bouche of whipped corn. A whip so delicate it was almost flavorless. I did like the crunchy wild rice and corn kernels and lemon basil accompanying. An odd start.The warm French baguette and cranberry pecan and olive rosemary breads were perfectly crusty and worth the calories, served with softened butter. A good omen.
We all shared an order of seared sweet potato gnocchi — soft delicate pillows made from both russet and sweet potatoes on a potato puree. Problem was it needed more of the latter, as the sweet potato taste was almost 
indiscernible. The rich, bold-on-the-palette, with a slight toasty flavor Viognier, Andre Perret, Chevy, Condrieu, from the Rhône Valley, France 2010 helped complemented the gnocchi richness.
The slightly sweet Gewürtztraminer Ovum Ne Me Quitte Pas, Gerber Vineyard, Rogue Valley, Oregon 2012 had a dry finish to help with the sweetness and earthiness of the decomposed parfait with fresh figs, roasted beets and poached pears. That healthy light dish came sprinkled in an oat granola.
With the foie gras — the highlight of the meal — we were offered a choice of two different wines: The Albert Boxler Sommerburg D’Grand Cru Riesling, Alsace, France 2009 and the classic Sauternes pairing, this one a Chateau Doisy-Védrines Crand Cru Classé 2010. The roasted lobe of foie gras sat on diced quince, covered with candied Meyer lemons and accompanied by roasted bitter red endive.
Not to be missed.
With my salmon with creamy potatoes and sorrel, I was served a Millton La Cote Pinot Noir, Gisborne, New Zealand 2012. With the pound of cooked lobster meat, sitting on a bed of black truffle puree covered in pickled daikon radish with herbs on top, the sommelier poured a Paul Hobbs, Pinot Noir, Hyde Vineyard, Carneros, Napa Valley 2012. Each simply prepared dish was perfectly light for lunch.
We had to ind
ulge in at least one dessert and so glad we did. I’d recommend the decadent milk chocolate dacquoise with layers of milk chocolate and hazelnuts, cookies for crunch, preserved lemon for a little acid and and a raspberry sorbet for sweetness.
The only disappointment was the chocolate cart of homemade filled chocolates, macarons, macademia nut brittle and caramels. They just weren’t up to the quality of the restaurant, and certainly not worth the calories!
– bonnie
The Dining Room at The Modern
9 W 53rd St
New York, NY 10019
(212) 333-1220
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