What to do when visiting relatives who have a friend who just opened his restaurant? Visit it of course, which is why I stopped in recently at The Central Restaurant & Bar in York, Maine.
Because they wanted me to write about it, we sampled much more than if I were just dining. And for full 
disclosure, we paid for everything.
Be sure to try some of their small plates. The flavorful Vietnamese garlic wings ($7) are only the flat wing, without the meaty drums (my favorite part). Their fried Scotch eggs (three for $8) use quail ones, wrapped with Italian sweet sausage and rolled in Panko crumbs, served with fried kale and a menu-described Sriracha aioli. I’d suggest them, but ask for extra Sriracha for the too mild sauce. I’d also recommend the sopes, two delicate corn cakes topped with guacamole, cotija cheese and Peekytoe crab ($8).
Since the wrapper for the large pork dumplings overwhelmed the delicate filling, I removed it, plunking that filling into the sweet miso, soy and chili dip to enjoy solo (three for $7). I can’t resist fries, especially when hand-cut, sprinkled with white truffle oil, garlic, parmesan cheese and sea salt, offered aioli or ketchup ($8). Don’t miss.
Texans will love the authentic brisket sandwich! The meat — smoked at least 12 hours — is cut thin, placed on a potato roll, drizzled with BBQ sauce and topped with thinly sliced red onions, pickled jalapeños and housemade dill pickle chips ($13).
The refreshing arugula & kale salad is topped with apple batons, golden beet cubes, glazed walnuts and goat cheese in a light poppy seed dressing ($9).
Although my portion of the wood-fire grilled Scottish salmon was overcooked, the flavor makes me say it’s worth trying. That salmon comes topped with white anchovies and a large caper berry, all slathered with tarragon butter ($18). The night’s flavor winner was the surf and turf ($24) blackboard special with garlic-hoisin coated skirt steak, perfectly cooked on the wood-fire grill and served with shrimp, rainbow pee wee potatoes, grilled 
zucchini and portabello mushrooms. Don’t miss, if offered.
The unusual sides (two with each entree; $5 each extra) include roasted butternut squash and parsnips cubes; fresh corn off the cob and sautéed spinach swimming in a lemon butter; and steamed asparagus & baby rainbow carrots with chopped herb olive oil.
Of course, we indulged in dessert. The creamy coconut rum crème brûlée would have been tastier warmed before topping it with the summer berries ($7). What was warm and freshly baked are the irresistible chocolate chip cookies (two for $7).
If you’re in the neighborhood, I suggest trying it.
– bonnie
The Central Restaurant & Bar
127 Long Sands Rd
York, ME 03909
(207) 351-8363
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