NEO is one of the most upscale steps yet in the developing Atlanta dining scene. The contemporary Italian restaurant at The Mansion on Peachtree is a delectable addition to the city, as well as a welcome throwback to a true fine dining experience; something that is sometimes lost in this new age of the ‘gastropub’. Being that it is a ‘hotel restaurant’, NEO offers breakfast, brunch, lunch and dinner. The menu selection spans the many hours of the day; from prosciutto eggs benedict in the morning, to a mouth watering ossobucco with risotto Milanese at dinner. NEO offers elegantly chosen and prepared cuisine throughout the day.

Though already head and shoulders above many others, the restaurant now goes further by offering two very interesting dinner programs, NEO Unplugged & NEO Uncorked. The ‘unplugged’ experience is fun; diners adhering to a no cell phone policy while eating by candle light in a romantic setting.

Uncorked is a completely different dinner. The second Wednesday of every month, NEO Uncorked features a wine expert, pairing wines from around the world with seasonal dishes by Executive Chef Eric Chopin. During my recent visit to NEO uncorked, we had the pleasure of enjoying our host, esteemed wine-maker, Robert Mondavi, Jr., showcasing his new collection of Folio Fine Wines. For this inaugural event, NEO pulled out all the stops, each course pairing new, vibrant wines with savory, delicious dishes.

The Mondavis, as well as producing wine, are now importing small batches of hand-selected bottlings. My friend Sous and I were greeted by one of these fine imports, Villa Sandi, a light and refreshing Prosecco accompanying passed appetizers. The bubbly did well to wash down the richness of potato blini with seruga caviar and creme fraiche while a Burrata cheese-spoon topped with a tomato emulsion and Mondavi olive oil added a tasty bite to the bubbly as well…

A pouring of Donna Fugata (Anthilia varietal) drew strong comparisons to an earthy chardonnay. The slight oak tannin adding nice contrast to the extraordinarily luscious flavor of seared jumbo scallops, plumply placed atop saffron beurre banc and served with an inspiring lime glaceo (ices), pink fleur de sel and mixed greens in champagne vinaigrette. Our hosts began pouring their flagship Chardonnay, Spellbound, midway through this dish, giving diners an opportunity to experience the flavors all over again, this time with the taut, steely minerality of this non-traditional California chardonnay.

Enough Spellbound remained in our glasses as veal raviolini and a tranche of foie gras were set before us. Servers added a pour of Medusa Old Vines Zinfandel, again allowing diners to taste each dish twice, once with the dry chardonnay and another time with the rich, berried zin. The well-planned course took shape with each sip, delicate veal heightened by the palate-cleansing white, while luscious blackberry tones stood up to the warm duck liver. Braised beef short rib with Asiago polenta was paired with a gentle petite syrah (gentle for this potent varietal!) while a decadent trio of chocolate mousse was served with a wine our host insisted must only be drunk from the navel of a lover! The dinner was amazing.. tables were set up as if we were at the host table of a wedding, Mondavi emceeing the event to perfection, with wine and conversation free-flowing amongst the jubilant guests. Kudos to NEO for bringing another great happening to Atlanta!

-bryan

NEO
3376 Peachtree Road NE, Atlanta, GA 30326

NEO is full-service, 95-seat fine dining restaurant located within the Mansion hotel; serving contemporary Italian-inspired cuisine in a casual yet sophisticated atmosphere. NEO offers innovative menus that take advantage of fresh ingredients from the Atlanta region with bold dishes that evolve seasonally. From the lush room facing a manicured English garden, to the formal service that seems everpresent but never present, NEO is a tradition in the making.

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