It took a few moments to adjust to the busting noise level at L’Artusi in the West Village, having just eaten at Greywind where I didn’t have to strain to hear my dining partner.

We were looking for a crisp, cold white on this hot summer night. We ordered the Pallagrello Bianco “caiatì,” Michele Alois 2022 ($64) on the reco of our server. After he poured it and had moved to another table, we flagged him down, as the wine was almost at room temperature.

He returned with three fresh glasses and a new chilled bottle, popped the cork, poured the new wine, which immediately frosted our glasses and took away the wine glasses filled with the warm wine. Happiness.

Each pasta is recommendable. I sampled the Pici Nero, black pasta with fresh chunks of crab with Calabrian chili, garlic, and nori breadcrumbs ($35). One of my dining partners had the tagliatelle, bolognese bianco with fresh Parmigiana Reggiano ($26) and the mushroom ragu with ricotta salamander ($24).

Wanting bread with the pasta, our waiter recommended the housemade focaccia with Nona Rose’s peppers ($8). We three loved the peppery olive oil.

I’d recommend a visit to L’Artusi.

L’Artusi
West Village
228 W 10th St
New York, NY 10014