Earlier this summer, a friend took me to The Red Cat for my birthday, and owner Jimmy Bradley noticed us and came by to give my friend big hug. At the end of the meal, having heard about our celebration, Jimmy sent out a decadent chocolate dessert with a lit candle. Nice touch. I’ve learned that’s Jimmy’s style. Or I should say, The Red Cat’s style. They work at making you feel special, so you’ll return.
I did so a week later with my visiting niece to discover the menu had changed. The fresh peas that were offered the week before, were no longer fresh enough for Jimmy to keep them on the menu. As seasonal offerings change, so does their menu.
I went back again to sit with Jimmy and hear his story. Although he grew up with wine in his blood (he comes from generations of wine makers), Jimmy prefers the food industry. He worked his way through small kitchens up to the 1000-seat Bryant Park Grill; he consulted with others opening restaurants and facilitated chef experiences for Food & Wine — including the Food & Wine Classic in Aspen. Jimmy was 31 when he achieved his goal of opening his own restaurant. The Red Cat opened in 1999 on Tenth Avenue in Chelsea.
Jimmy created a neighborhood place where people would come for the experience; he gave it a name that was completely non-ethnic. He wanted a blank canvas on which to create. The restaurant check still says “The Red Cat from the earth to the table,” long before the locavore movement. Their check still says “Thank you for dining at the Red Cat.” Thank you Jimmy for taking the time to share your thoughts.
– bonnie
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Which food product or gadget would you never give up? Good salt to enhance the natural flavors in what I’m cooking and my spoon collection. I have a hundred spoons of different shapes, sizes and materials, most purchased in small markets when traveling that I use for literally every task in the kitchen.
What do you like to serve when you entertain? Cocktails and sparkling wine while folks gather, wine with dinner, then cognac or grappa afterwards. I usually entertain family style, with lots of vegetable dishes and salads for guests to help themselves to, a little pasta, and some fish or meat roasted or off the grill. I’ll always end the meal with a seasonal pie or crisp, and homemade ice cream.
Describe your “last meal?” I would have a few dozen oysters, with french fries, sancerre and crème brulee
What food is your secret guilty pleasure? French Fries. But I don’t really feel guilty about it!
What is your go-to neighborhood restaurant? Da Umberto in Chelsea. It’s an old-school, family-owned Italian joint where the food, service and beverage selections are all on point. When I go there they say “welcome home.” It might sound cheesy, but that’s a nice thing to hear.
What is one food product most people don’t know about, but should? Rutabaga or yellow turnip: Its great simply roasted with EVOO, salt and pepper or mashed with butter and cream. Or sometimes I like to cut it like a papardelle noodle and cook it in a large skillet with a little water, butter and EVOO. When the water evaporates and the rutabaga ribbons are softened I finish the dish with salt, pepper, torn parsley and parmesan.
Describe your worst kitchen disaster and how (if possible) you saved it: I was catering a large fancy event and decided to cook the duck course outside on the grill with a nice wood fire. I did not realize that the grills were set up under the intake for the air conditioner, so when I grilled the duck, all the smoke (and it was a lot) when through the duct work and into the dining room. Good thing it was only one of many courses.
Who was your most influential mentor? In cooking, my pop, who taught me how to shop for the best ingredients, my nona who taught me about the soul and culture of food, and Jonathan Waxman who inspires me to be in the moment.
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