To dine at David Burke’s open kitchen you head down one flight of stairs in The James 
Hotel in Soho.
We sat near the glass-enclosed wine cave, skipping wine at lunch in favor of one of their unusual, quite tasty cocktails. We tried the refreshing Grand Tsar made with beluga vodka, meyer lemon, black tea agave, cucumber and mint ($18).
Don’t miss the crispy (6) fried oysters served atop shredded Brussels sprouts, bacon and a spicy aioli. Perfection ($18). And, having listened to our waitress describe the tableside kale salad ($16), ordered that and were quite surprised when the waiter plopped down an already made one in front of me.
Knowing I had been invited as their guest to write about the restaurant, the waitress apologized. “Not a problem,” I responded.
Next thing we know the manager was there with a waiter who made me another kale salad, this time on a cart at the table. First he squeezed the champagne vinaigrette into the bowl, then added the kale, scoops of farro, bourbon-soaked currants, cashews pickled in vinegar, honey and water, and fresh herbs (tarragon, thyme, parsley) served atop Greek yogurt flavored with orange zest. Refreshingly good.
Our entrees included branzini over grilled scallions dressed in olive oil and lemon, with a tomato fennel vinaigrette ($25) and the mustard-glazed grilled salmon over quinoa and roasted and pureed carrots. Light. ($24). I’d recommend either.
– bonnie
David Burke Kitchen at The James
Soho
23 Grand St
New York, NY 10013
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