Dan Kluger, the former executive chef at ABC Kitchen who went on to open Loring Place, is now at Greywind, a windowed 58-seat dining room on the corner of Tenth Avenue and 35th Street slightly east of the 7-train Hudson River stop. I loved how I didn’t have to strain to hear my friend.

I had read—and heard—about his housemade “Cheese-its,” a giant cracker that, after biting, tasted similar to its packaged namesake.

For fun, as spud-lovers, we had to sample chef Kluger’s crispy potatoes ($21) topped with smoked chili buttermilk ranch and slivers of fresh celery, even though neither of us liked the Canadian poutine, with cheese curds and gravy over French fries. Dan Kluger’s version is not to be missed. That good! After finishing every potato, we signaled our waiter to cancel the side of fries with our entree as we were spud-full.

For our small plates, we shared their velvety chicken liver mousse enveloped in crispy quinoa and topped with currant jam and charred onions ($21) and his unusual sugar snap peas in a bonito vinaigrette with Middlebury blue cheese ($23).

We shared the Elysian Fields lamb ($48) with a deep-fried potato rectangle cut the same size as the meat. It is one of the tastiest potatoes I’ve ever eaten! And that came with spring veggies, including fresh peas and mint.

We had decided to pass on dessert, but from the reservation, the restaurant knew I was celebrating my birthday, and our waiter brought out their decadent Greywind sundae in a housemade waffle bowl filled with ice cream. It came with a plate with little pitchers of hot fudge and pourable caramel, plus a bowl of sour gummies ($20) replete with a lit candle. We finished it.

I do recommend Greywind, especially when you’re looking for a place with outstanding food and service where you can hear your dining partner.

Greywind
Manhattan West
451 Tenth Ave,
New York City, NY 10018
greywindnyc.com/menus/