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Happening around the World

Michelin-Star Restaurant Calla Lilies, The Hague, Netherlands

Years ago, Jacques Pepin mentioned that he prefers mainly one-star restaurants when he's across the pond. The food and service are Michelin quality and are reasonably priced. I do the same, generally dining at lunch as I enjoy eating the multi-course, less expensive meal midday.  This time when visiting my family in Den Haag, I dined with my daughter-in-law at Restaurant Calla Lilies, named after the flower 'Calla, an originally Mexican flower and the Greek word for “beautiful.”   We opted for the 3-course lunch menu (€57.50; $62.41) per person. Our aperitifs — along with a glass of Charles Heidsieck, NV Brut Reserve (€17 each; $18.43) — included Dutch cheese crackers [...]

By |2023-12-23T17:10:37-05:00December 28th, 2023|World, World Restaurants, World Travel|0 Comments
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Le Domaine du Val d’Argan Winery, Ounagha, Morocco

Our last meal together on our Global Palate Adventures Moroccan trip was at Le Domaine du Val d'Argan Winery in Ounagha, Morocco. A vineyard where they use dromedaries (a one-hump camel) in place of tractors. They also offer bed and breakfast lodging and a pool. After our winery tour (200-300 dirhams, $20-30 per person), we indulged in a fabulous, freshly cooked meal poolside and their wines (250 - 400 dirhams, $25-40 per person). Our lunch was perfection, served family style with lots of fresh veggies and salads, including fresh beets, lentils, cucumbers, cabbage slaw, tomatoes, green beans, carrots and fried zucchini and eggplant. Of course, we also had bowls of [...]

By |2023-12-23T16:45:07-05:00December 22nd, 2023|Bites from the Road, World, World Restaurants, World Travel|2 Comments
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Fresh Fish at Chez Ahmed , Essaouira, Morocco

While we checked into the Suite Azur Hotel in the seaside town of Essaouira, Zachariah headed to the port to pick up fresh fish and deliver it to Chez Ahmed. We were heading there for lunch. Once settled, we zigzagged through our section of the medina to Chez Ahmed in a courtyard full of storefront restaurants. They had set out one long table with fresh olives, harissa for the fish and a basket of fresh pita bread baked in the neighborhood oven, like every resident. In addition to the fresh fish Zachariah had picked up for us, the kitchen served crisp french fries and fresh tomato salad. Our fish included [...]

By |2023-12-17T09:41:44-05:00December 7th, 2023|Bites from the Road, World, World Restaurants, World Travel|0 Comments
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Terrasse Des Espices, Marrakech, Morocco

We had the evening off after a visit to an organic farm outside Marrakech. We originally had a reservation at Dar Yacout — a famed location — but they canceled. Since they also canceled my friend when she recently visited Marrakesh, I booked Terrasse Des Espices, just in case. That evening, four of us headed to the restaurant with a guide to assist us through the Medina. Once there, we ascended to the rooftop bar and dining room, partially lit by the almost full moon. It was magical. With drinks, we nibbled the crusty bread and fresh marinated black and green olives. First, we shared their Mediterranean-style plancha-grilled seasonal vegetables [...]

By |2024-07-21T11:11:50-04:00November 21st, 2023|Bites from the Road, Rooftop, World, World Restaurants|0 Comments
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Le Trou Au Mur, Marrakech, Morocco

On the first night of our Global Palate Adventures trip, after we were settled into our riad, the group had dinner at Le Trou Au Mur, a charming Moroccan restaurant in old town offering a modern-day take on traditional cuisine. Its name translates to "a hole in the wall." Everything we tried was worth ordering. My end of the table ordered many dishes that we shared. We started with cherchma, mixed beans and lentils in a Moroccan spiced sauce over whole wheat couscous (75 dirhams, $7.50) and charmoula sardines filled with lightly spiced seasonal vegetables (80 dirhams, $8). While waiting for our food, we walked up to the roof to [...]

By |2023-11-19T07:55:27-05:00November 7th, 2023|Bites from the Road, World, World Restaurants|0 Comments
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La Sqala, Casablanca, Morocco

La Sqala is near the old Medina and around the corner from Rick's Cafe, the institution made famous by the movie Casablanca. We canceled our Rick's dinner reservation for this more authentic one offering Moroccan cuisine in an outdoor Andalusian garden with live local music. We hoped to stop by after dinner for a drink, as most Moroccan restaurants do not offer alcohol. We had new friends to dine with, whom we met at the pool atop the Mövenpick Hotel, a 5-star hotel in central Casablanca. The four of us shared everything. We started by grazing on two mezzes (90 dirhams or about $9 for each grouping) that came with [...]

By |2024-07-21T11:11:59-04:00November 1st, 2023|Bites from the Road, Rooftop, World, World Restaurants|0 Comments
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A Meal at Arca Worthy of a Visit, Tulum, Mexico

We were supposed to be six at the upscale Arca restaurant from executive chef and owner Jose Luis Hinostroza. This farm-to-table Tulum restaurant opened in 2015, offering open-fire cooking of small plates intended to be shared. Their food represents the flora and fauna of the area. With six, we would have experienced many more dishes. One of our group became ill, and three others opted to stay in their hotel room with him. (He's fine now!)  So the two of us only had room for a  couple of the chef's creative dishes.  I started with their mezcal El Solar cocktail ($7.75), which wasn't too sweet. I'd recommend.  We couldn't resist [...]

By |2022-12-27T08:06:17-05:00January 31st, 2023|World, World Restaurants|0 Comments
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The Beach Club Kanan, Tulum, Mexico

My friend had been in Tulum all week in preparation for her son's wedding. She stayed on the beach at the Ahau, yet ate lunch at The Beach Club Kanan daily. I joined her for lunch the afternoon of the Welcome Drinks and Dinner party. Each day, she ordered the same dish for lunch, their simple shrimp with a white rice garnish and a choice of three sauces. The Kanan offered a garlic mojo, a devil sauce and a garlicky guajillo sauce. We wanted all three, as she did each day. Kenten Marin, their executive chef, had to come from the kitchen to meet us. "Who would order all three [...]

By |2023-01-28T11:15:34-05:00January 23rd, 2023|Bites from the Road, World Restaurants, World Travel|0 Comments
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Toucan Sur Mer, Ixelles, Brussels, Belgium

During my Thanksgiving visit across the pond, we dined with friends at Toucan Sur Mer, a renowned fish restaurant in Brussels' Ixelles neighborhood. What's remarkable about this friendly fish restaurant is their velvety Soupe de Poissons de Roche (14,00 €), a classic French soup similar to Nice's bouillabaisse. It came with grated Emmenthal cheese and rouille, a Provençal variation on aïoli, the traditional accompaniment with bouillabaisse. Don't miss. Other good selections are their oysters  (2.50 € each) and the salmon tartare a la Japonaise (19.50 €) with grainy mustard. Four of us chose their fish & chips (24 €), crunchy fish pieces with a small salad, tartar sauce and a big [...]

By |2023-01-14T15:27:03-05:00January 14th, 2023|Bites from the Road, World, World Restaurants, World Travel|0 Comments
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Cafe Pomegranate, Zeeheldenkwartier, Den Haag, The Netherlands

We ventured out in the rain for brunch to a new women-owned cafe around the corner. It's a family affair, owned by a mom and her daughters who moved to Den Haag from Australia. The smoothie with bananas, mango and lots of cinnamon was a hit with my granddaughter, as were her ricotta pancakes (11.5 €) with Nutella mascarpone, roasted walnuts and fresh berries. Also tasty are the spicy scramble (12.5 €) with burrata, chorizo and arugula, the eggs benny with bacon and asparagus (14.5 €) and a side of parmesan asparagus (4 €). The cafe offers housemade pastries and a local bakery's pan chocolate and fruit tarts. I recommend [...]

By |2023-01-15T11:59:00-05:00January 5th, 2023|World, World Restaurants, World Travel|0 Comments
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Lunch at Kofradia – Itsas Etxea, San Sebastian, Spain

With our final meal of our San Sebastian trip being that night, we had a light lunch at Kofradia, a fisherman's house offering fresh fish caught nearby in Basque Country. We sipped the Viña Zorzal Rosado ($16€), a Garnacha rosé. We were in sticker shock at that price, which is for a bottle, not a glass! For lunch we ate the Thon blanc marinée avec jus de tomatoes et des olives. That's freshly marinated white tuna with ripe tomatoes and manzanilla olives (14€). We sopped up every drop with their crusty bread. Perfection. Had to smile at the presentation of the bill in an anchovy can! I highly recommend a [...]

By |2022-11-20T17:38:00-05:00November 10th, 2022|Bites from the Road, World, World Restaurants|0 Comments
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Lunch at Ongi Etorri, Saint Jean De Luz, France

On our way to France for the day, we stopped to attend the unique Alarde parade in the charming medieval town of Hondarribia (Spain), where everyone in the city celebrates by dressing in red and white. Afterward, we stopped for lunch in Saint Jean De Luz, where we tripped across the Ongi Etorri cafe. We were thrilled we did. Two had the pot of mussels (15 €), and others ordered the 3-course menu (19.50 €). My friend began with the green salad with fried camembert and grilled sardines with fries. I delighted in eating the sweet piquillo red peppers stuffed with a delicate cod mousse, followed by an unremarkable chicken [...]

By |2022-11-01T09:45:59-04:00November 4th, 2022|World, World Restaurants, World Travel|2 Comments
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Bilbao, Spain: Restaurant Markina

Our front desk clerk recommended a darling little cafe not far from Hotel Míro in Bilbao, where we were staying. Markina is a friendly café with attentive service. We started with a bottle of rosé (20 €) while perusing the menu. We were still shocked that a bottle cost what a glass did in New York. We arrived just in time to get a seat, as the restaurant completely filled up.  Everything was delicious. Their rich burrata, made in Bilbao, comes accompanied by eggplant and tomato chutney (15.50 €). We ordered bread (2.80 €) for that and to dip into the garlicky oil from the grilled Galician razor clams (15.50 [...]

By |2022-11-01T09:59:36-04:00October 30th, 2022|Bites from the Road, World, World Restaurants|0 Comments
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San Sebastián: The Pintxos Tour

Pintxos are early evening snacks traditionally served at bars in the Basque country of northern Spain. They're enjoyed along with cider, beer or wine while standing at a table — if you can grab one. During a recent Global Palate Adventure, I sampled many pintxos in Old Town, San Sebastian. I've yet to find one I didn't like. First, don't miss sampling Spain's indigenous Jamon Iberico, the cured meat from pigs mainly fed acorns. ZaporeJai, C. de San Jerónimo, 21.  I'd recommend any pintxos at La Mejillonera c/del Puerot, 5. Their fresh calamari was crispy; the potatoes bravo tasty, although I'd have preferred less of the sauces. The succulent steamed mussels [...]

By |2022-11-01T09:54:19-04:00October 25th, 2022|World, World Restaurants|0 Comments
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My Favorite Basque Pintxos: The Gilda

The Gilda — a Basque-style tapa often served on a skewer — is one of the oldest pintxos in San Sebastian. The newly opened Bar Casa Vallés (Reyes Catolicos Kalea, 10, 20006 Donostia, Gipuzkoa, Spain) first served it in the '40s, named after the American film Gilda. It's a little bit spicy, a little salty, just like the Spanish-descended actress Rita Hayworth's character in the movie.  Jon, our local tour guide on a trip with Global Palate Adventures, took us to his social club, where his family and numerous others could entertain by either hiring a chef or preparing their food in the large kitchen. Jon introduced us to this pintxo, instructing [...]

By |2022-10-20T08:59:46-04:00October 20th, 2022|Recipes, Starters, World|0 Comments
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Michelin 1-star Nerua at Guggenheim Bilboa Museum, Bilboa, Spain

The Basque country is a must-do for anyone who loves food. My first stop was in Bilboa (Spain) to visit the Guggenheim Museum. Afterward, we headed next door to Nerua, a Michelin one-star restaurant offering local Basque cuisine. We opted for the reasonably priced 85 € multi-course tasting menu with their 35 € wine pairing beautifully described by our attentive server, Asier Llona. Our first delicacies were the labor-intense amuse-bouche: A small glass of tomato-water clear gazpacho and three pintxos on a ceramic bench plate. One was a bread croquette filled with bonito, another a mini quail egg topped with langoustine foam and then the Cricket. That's the name they [...]

By |2022-10-20T08:51:43-04:00October 12th, 2022|Bites from the Road, USA Restaurants, World, World Restaurants, World Travel|2 Comments
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Lunch at Kod Kapetan, Hvar, Croatia

On our free day, we took the fast ferry from Split to Hvar to discover this summer resort island in the Adriatic Sea. Before stopping for lunch along the seaside, we walked up to the fortress with beautiful views overlooking the sea. After shopping at local shops, we headed seaside to find a place to dine. Kod Kapetan - near the beach club - was ideal, with good food and friendly service. We ordered what had become our favorite Croatian wine Pošip, this one a 2018 Marijan from Hvar. (180 kunas ~$28). The kitchen served us crisp bruschetta topped with fresh tomatoes. Divine. Next, we shared delicious prawns, even tho [...]

By |2021-11-21T11:46:13-05:00November 14th, 2021|Bites from the Road, USA, USA Restaurants, World, World Restaurants|0 Comments
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Dvor, Split, Croatia on the Adriatic Sea

Recommended in the Michelin Guide, Dvor opened in 2013. We sat outside on the terrace with a spectacular view of the Adriatic sea and Croatian islands beyond while being serenaded by a guitarist across the patio singing American songs. We all decided to have their five-course tasting menu (470 Kuna, ~$73.50) and ordered a bottle of white and red to accompany. Our first amazingly unusual dish — "Canelon" tuna with goose liver— was the favorite of the evening. Goose liver ganache wrapped in fresh tuna garnished with purple onion gel, pea gel, Jerusalem artichoke gel, black olive dust and Aceto Balsamico pearls. Fantastic. The smoked sea risotto was a runner-up [...]

By |2021-11-21T11:45:01-05:00November 6th, 2021|Bites from the Road, World, World Restaurants|0 Comments
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Den Haag Dining, The Netherlands

I recently spent a week with the part of my family living in The Netherlands. Hadn't seen them since the world closed down last March. I decided to share the two restaurants in their hood, one where we had brunch, the other my farewell dinner. At Kaafi, we stopped for brunch after a morning at one of the many playgrounds in this kid-friendly city. The service at this specialty coffee and brunch bar was over-the-top friendly. Both egg dishes were good (10.90 € each). Their silky french omelette comes filled with brie, rolled in butter and served on seeded sourdough bread. Our other choice had creamy scrambled Cheddar eggs, with [...]

By |2021-08-27T13:00:00-04:00August 26th, 2021|World, World Restaurants|1 Comment
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My Last Meal as the World Closed: Esszimmer, Salzburg, Austria

(Obviously, written before COVID-19 quarantine)  Little did I know when Andrea Kaiblinger and I were emailing about my reservation at her Michelin-starred restaurant Esszimmer in Salzburg (Austria) that my friends Scot, Ed and I would be their last customers before the government instructed them to shut down. Andrea welcomed us warmly as we arrived at her comfortably elegant restaurant.  Andrea, who works with her husband Andreas, mentioned that they had been operating for 16 years. "How many years have you had the Michelin star?" "Sixteen," she responded with a big smile filling her face.   I've always found lunch an affordable way to dine at Michelin-starred restaurants. That also gives [...]

By |2020-09-30T17:16:43-04:00September 24th, 2020|World, World Restaurants|0 Comments
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