Earlier this summer I was invited to a press dinner given by Chef Bryan Malcarney of Blue Lemon restaurant. I couldn’t make that but did decide to head Westport to sample what I had heard were his interesting preparations of fish and seafood delivered daily from both local waters and those of Hawaii. I wasn’t disappointed.
I realized that our paths must have crossed before as Chef Bryan’s had cooked at a number of restaurants I had frequented: Martha’s Vineyard’s The Black Dog, New Haven’s Café Pika Tapas (now Ibiza) and Westport’s DaPietro’s.
His charming restaurant Blue Lemon is aptly decorated in blues and yellows, in Sconset Square in the former home of Tartine. We started with a Barons de Rothchild Semillion/Sauvignon Blanc 2009 ($30), perfect with seafood.
The New England Clam Chowder was rich and creamy and anything but traditional as it’s chock full of herbs, fresh corn plus the customary potatoes, cream and — of course —a generous amount of clams. The Crisp Duck Spring Rolls needed a tad more filling and the dipping sauce billed as “hot and sour” ($11.50) needed more spice as it was bland.
What’s perfection and not to be missed are the exquisitely seared diver scallops over tender orzo, sauteed spinach in a tart, preserved lemon vinaigrette (entree portion $28). NOTE: the photo above is of a tasting portion, not a full entree one.
Another not-to-be-missed dish is Blue Lemon’s Hearty Lobster Cobb salad with an entire tender lobster topping mixed green, chunks of chewy bacon and blue cheese dressed in that same, tart and perfectly balanced, preserved lemon vinaigrette ($30).
Also tasty is the pan seared crab cake with an apple and fennel remoulade accompanied by with baby field greens and a roasted pepper vinaigrette ($12).
– bonnie
Blue Lemon Restaurant
15 Myrtle Ave
Westport, CT 06880
(203) 226-2647
www.bluelemonrestaurant.com
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