I often walk past Barbounia, on the corner of Park and 20th but have avoided trying it because of the deafening noise level. But one day recently, a friend and I decided to dine early and requested the small table not far from the entrance — one that wasn’t butting against others — so we’d have a quieter location. So glad we did.

We selected the 2014 Villa Sparina, Gavi di Gavi from the Piedmont region ($50) to start. Our waiter explained that Barbounia served modern Mediterranean cuisine, influenced by the cuisine of Greece, Turkey, Moroccan and Israel (the chef is Israeli).

We started with a mezze that included a warm loaf of bread, a bowl of olives and our three selections ($19.95) from the five offerings. We chose the Israeli hummus, smoky eggplant and housemade feta cheese with jalapeno and chili flakes. I’d recommend all three.

Don’t miss the flash-fried cauliflower served over tahini and sprinkled with microgreens and pine nuts ($10.95). Fine, but nothing special, is their grilled Portuguese octopus ($19.95), cut into pieces and piled high, interspersed with those same microgreens and some crisp fingerling potatoes. I’d recommend their saganaki ($15.95) for Kefalograviera cheese lovers. It arrives flaming from the lit Mextaxa brandy along with a bowl of grapes and toasted bread ($15.95).

I’d return again for that mezze midday or for another early evening so I wouldn’t have to deal with the resounding noise.

– bonnie
BonnieBOTB
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Barbounia
Union Square
250 Park Avenue South
New York, NY 10003
(212) 995-0242
Barbounia Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato