Chef de Cuisine David Cámara, a veteran of Vin Sur Vingt, has recently taken over the kitchen of Le Rivage, and I was invited to sample his cuisine. We arrived one December night at a tastefully decorated dining room. From 4 pm to 7:30 pm, Le Rivage offers a three-course prix-fixe dinner ($70)

To join in the festivities, we ordered some bubbly. When they served the Pommery POP Extra Dry champagne ($25) in individual splits, I asked for straws, recalling a press event where they had served it that way. Do try it, as the effervescence is more intense.

While sipping the sparkling, we devoured the piquillo peppers ($18) stuffed with herbed goat cheese and sprinkled with almonds, the refreshing, slightly sweet celeriac, kohlrabi and apple salad ($18) made with chopped pistachios, pickled whole-grain mustard and horseradish and their fresh bread. Each dish was a testament to the chef’s skill.

Since we were sampling lots, I asked our fabulous server not to serve everything at once.

Next, we nibbled the flavorful salt cod brandade ($22) with toast crisps with pickled veggies. After that, the frog legs ($26) in persillade—a parsley and garlic sauce.

Our only disappointment was the “NYC Wine & Food Festival, Two-Time Winner” French onion soup burger ($32) only because it was overcooked. We requested medium-rare; the burger was medium-well. I could imagine how good it would have been less cooked, but I didn’t mention it to the server, as we had more than enough to eat. I’d go back and order it again with their yummy fries.

I recommend the tender Parisian gnocchi ($39) with black truffles and Comté cheese. The dish did not disappoint.

Although we were stuffed, we knew we also needed to try desserts. We are so glad we did. Their profiteroles ($16) are filled with vanilla ice cream, topped with chocolate sauce and sprinkled with toasted almonds. Do not miss the creamy, crustless Basque cheesecake ($14) with Chantilly cream.

After seeing the ritual of dripping water over a sugar cube into a shot of absinthe, we had to try the liqueur, which combines the refreshing flavor of anise with the complexity of assorted herbs.

I highly recommend a visit to the very French Le Rivage!

 

Le Rivage
Theatre Row
340 W 46th St,
New York, NY 10036
(212) 765-7374
lerivagenyc.com