I first sampled Peruvian food in Lima over 50 years ago when I went to meet my newborn nephew, who is now 51. I recently stopped into the newly opened, grand Mission Ceviche in Union Square for more Peruvian fare. It’s a sister to the original one on the Upper East Side.

This one is spacious, with Italian marble bars for its ceviche and sushi station, a mosaic octopus at the entrance and an unusual rope chandelier with lots of fresh plants hanging from it lights the expansive restaurant designed by New World Design Builders with Peruvian-inspired fabrics reminiscent of the sea and a commissioned wall covering made of thousands of fish-shaped scales.

The food is as spectacular as the decor. We shared the tender grilled octopus ($32) and papa amarilla, a yellow-fleshed native Peruvian potato with corn and olives, and sipped our wines —the M de Minuty, Cote de Provence, French rose ($17) and the Domaine Michel Girard et Fils Sancerre, France ($21).

While finishing the delicious, whole grilled branzino with rice and corn ($45), a friend called and then joined us.

She ordered the classic ceviche of mahi mahi cooked in fresh tiger’s milk (citrus fruit juice, chilies, onions and cilantro) with corn and sweet potatoes ($27).

We also shared with light, delicate chirimoya mousse ($12) for dessert.

After lunch, I met another friend to see the hilarious Sutton Foster and Michael Urie in Once Upon A Mattress, a revival I highly recommend as I do Mission Ceviche.

Mission Ceviche
Union Square
7 E 17th Street
New York, NY 10003
(212) 680-4067
missionceviche.com