It’s been almost a decade since a publicist had invited me to try Brian Lewis’ innovative cuisine at The Cottage in Westport. I returned recently to share a meal with some Connecticut friends.

It’s a lovely small cottage, hence the name. Its ever-changing menu showcases seasonal fare — very Connecticut.

The Chateau des Jacques Bourgogne, Chardonnay 2022 ($80), went well with our selections. For apps, we shared cottage-smoked meaty ribs ($25), the spicy squid with broccoli in a red chili vinaigrette ($21) and the beet and citrus-cured hamachi with pickled onions, cara cara orange and wasabi crema ($20).

I couldn’t miss the do-it-yourself Wagyu brisket bao buns I sampled on the first visit ($12 a bun, up from $6 in 2016!). The potatoes cooked tempura-style in duck fat make that dish extra memorable.

Our entrees were good. They included the cottage burger ($26) topped with comté cheese, sriracha aioli, bacon and onion jam; the tender slow-cooked king salmon with sunchokes, English peas and morels ($38); and the English-pea-filled pasta sacs in sage brown butter ($21/$31).

The Cottage is worth a visit, especially if you have tickets to Westport Playhouse across the street.

The Cottage
Westport
256 Post Road East,
Westport, CT 6880
(203) 557-3701
thecottage.kitchen/westport