Not knowing how long it would take to get there, we took an early ferry to Staten Island for our 5:30 dinner at Enoteca Maria, next to the historic St. George Theatre, where we were seeing Dionne Warwick. We arrived before the restaurant even opened, yet were welcomed and seated at the front window table to chat and people watch out the window.

Instead of chefs, rotating Nonnes cook with Italian grandmother Maria the constant. Our night’s menus include foods from both an Egyptian Nonna and a Japanese one.

We asked Safa, our informative server, to course our selections as we had the time before their latter 7:30 seating, which would have been too late for us to catch Dionne Warwick’s performance. First, she served us their pickled veggies and focaccia. She happily obliged, starting with a big harvest salad from the Italian menu and the tofu fritters from the Japanese.

The salad consisted of candied walnuts, feta and concentric slices of pears and apples ($19) topped lightly dressed greens. The crispy tofu fritters are surprisingly delicious ($16). We enjoyed the Cantina di Mogoro, Meno Sardo Cannonau Di Sardegna, 2018 ($60) with our meal.

As Nonna Maria welcomed us, Safa served the glazed grilled Japanese eggplant with seasonal simmered vegetables ($24), our intermezzo course. Maria visited with us before moving on to the other tables.

Our entrees included the Sanyet Batates, Egyptian chicken thighs and potatoes in tomato sauce ($30) and the miso grilled salmon ($38) with its wakame salad. Both were delicious, too.

We ended with a decadent gateau au chocolate, chocolate cake with whipped cream and berry sauce ($16) before heading next door to be dazzled by the beautiful theatre and — the diva of soul and a six-time Grammy Award-winning music legend — Dionne Warwick.

I’d recommend a trip to both the theatre and the restaurant.

Enoteca Maria
Staten Island
27 Hyatt Street,
Staten Island, New York 10301
enotecamaria.com