Make a special trip to Grand Central Terminal, not for a train, but to dine in Agern Restaurant and Bar, tucked away in what used to be a hairdressing salon and in the old days, the former men’s waiting room of GCT. Open less than a year, this Nordic eatery from Claus Meyer of Noma in Copenhagen and Icelandic Chef Gunnar Gislason has already earned a Michelin star.
The unusual menu spotlights the New York region’s wild and farmed ingredients, done Nordic style. Wines offered are from the U.S. For lunch, Agern offers two courses for $65, three $75, or each one a la carte. We each opted for the three.
For apps, we devoured the salt and ash baked beet roots with caraway seeds and huckleberries drizzled with blackberry vinegar; smoked salmon tartare with crème fraiche, mustard seeds and toast crisps; and picked herring dotted with curried mayonnaise. The first two had decent sized portions, the latter only three small pieces of herring (but that’s my only complaint of Agern!)
For sharing purposes, we sampled three entrees all worth trying: The crispy fried yet moist and tender fluke with batons of celeriac and Meyer lemon; freeze-dried sable with cauliflower sauce, sweet potatoes and peanuts all drizzled with a 12-year aged apple balsamic vinegar; and a duck-leg confit patty with black trumpet mushroom and cauliflower sauce.
Two of us chose the chocolate option for dessert (milk and dark chocolate ganache with chestnut ice cream and cocoa puff power on top), the other an unusual frozen caramel mousse, sunchoke ice cream garnished with garnished with crispy sunchoke and honeycomb.
And like so many high-end restaurants, we left with a little goodie to enjoy later — canvas bag packed with a mini-loaf of their crusty bread.
I recommend going out of your way to dine here!
– bonnie
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Agern Restaurant and Bar
Grand Central Terminal
89 East 42nd Street
NY, NY 10017
646-568-4018
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