I was skeptical about dining at another pricey Italian seafood place after my 
mediocre-meal experience at Marea the day before. But with Esca right across the street from the Westside Theatre where we were seeing Cagney:The Musical it didn’t make sense to change the res.
I’m so glad we didn’t. Every dish was seasoned to perfection and service was attentive but not snooty. What a difference!
Our amuse consisted of a lick-your-fingers white bean bruschetta. Off to a good start.
My friends thought they weren’t wild about octopus ($19) until they tasted Esca’s version grilled crusty on the outside and tender in, served with giant corona beans, frisée and preserved Sorrento lemon. The green organic salad of early spring veggies (verura mista $18) was even better with sheep’s milk ricotta in an herbed vinaigrette so light that it skimmed, it not drowned the vegetables.
Esca’s gnocchi made using Old Chatam sheep’s milk ricotta ($27) were melt-in-the mouth pillows as they should be, not the hard nuggets I experienced at Marea. These delicate morsels floated in a sauce of buffalo mozzarella, tomato and basil.
Also good is their crispy local flounder served with an unusual amalgam of roasted cauliflower,capers, raisins and pine nuts ($37). 
Wanting something green with our entrees, we ordered the trio of Italian style veggies ($15 for three) asparagus, snow peas and leafy greens.
Do not miss dessert. The oh so good Sorrento lemon cake served with a lemon sorbetto on a plate decorated with finger-licken’ meringues and crisps ($14). We cleaned the plate — literally. Then off we went across the street to see the story of Jimmy Cagney, played by the talented Robert Creighton, who at times I had to remind myself was not Cagney, along with a cast that might increase attendance at tap classes. Don’t miss it.
– bonnie
Esca
Hell’s Kitchen
402 W 43rd Street
New York, NY 10036
(212) 564-7272
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