Circo offers upscale Tuscan Italian fare served in a setting reminiscent of the old-style European circus tents, designed by Adam Tihany, that inspired the restaurant’s name.
Circo a perfect spot to dine before heading to New York City Center as it’s located across the street. When I visited, recently as their guest, I noticed how at 7:30 the restaurant cleared out as most everyone — other than me and a couple others — left in time for the rise of the curtain.
We began with the lightly battered mixed fried shrimp, calamari and zucchini ($17) lightly, served with both marinara and a spicy aioli. After that we had a pasta course (split in half to share) of handmade tortelli filled with burrata, served with ($26) zucchini flowers and fresh mushrooms. Had I not remembered that burrata filled that pasta, I would not have recognized it – as there wasn’t enough to really taste. Our citrusy Duckhorn (Napa, ’11, $67) Sauvignon Blanc worked well with both of those and with what followed.
Our entrees included the branzino ($34) cooked in a salt crust and peeled table side, served with roasted spring vegetables. An unusual presentation tableside, with a simply flavored fish from it. We also shared two thinly pounded pieces of veal served piccata style — that’s in a lemon, white wine sauce, topped with green peas, cooked mushrooms and roasted potatoes. I really liked the side of cheese-topped asparagus that accompanied it.
I found the dessert of Zuccotto al Cioccolato ($10) — a milk chocolate mousse sponge cake with dry meringue — delightfully chocoatley without being too rich. Also tasty is the Budino di Caramello con Vin Santo Gelato ($11), a toffee pudding with gelato and the plate of small cookies and biscotti that they give you at the end.
If you have tickets at City Center, this is a good place to dine.
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