The publicist emailed to invite me to sample Row House’s fare at the seasonal American eatery in the heart of 
Harlem on Frederick Douglas Boulevard.
We started with one of the funky sounding cocktails while looking over the varied menu.
I started with one of spicy funky sounding cocktails — “Hot Enough to Last” ($13) made with a honey jalapeño bourbon, basil and Jamaican ginger beer — while looking over the over zealous menu, which I thought would be a stretch for any kitchen. The staff, though, couldn’t have be more gracious in enthusiastically explaining all the offerings, many designed to share.
Do try their fresh kale and beet salad, dotted with quinoa, topped with a goat cheese-filled squash blossom ($13) and served with a nutty mustard vinaigrette oddly served on the side. Would have been even better had they tossed it with the salad. The breaded schnitzel ($13) with spiced chickpeas and fried capers didn’t taste as if coated in pretzels as the menu stated, but was fork tender.
Sitting in a porcelain spoon atop sautéed spinach and 
crisp proscuitto, the carbonara dumplings ($9) looked inviting. Skip them until they figure out the right balance of parmesan cream center. The night we were there it was almost all dough, as we were told their previous renditions squirted too much hot cream ($9).
I almost never miss a chance to try a new octopus preparation. This version came attractively presented with fingerling potatoes, chorizo and frisee on a platter “painted” with olive tapanade, sadly the grilled cephalopod was too chewy to swallow ($16). With the 
broiled halibut overcooked, the Brussels sprouts undercooked, and the french fries prefect, I realized that you didn’t come to the Row House for the fancy food, but the fun Harlem vibe instead. I would return for drinks and simple nibbles for sure.
– bonnie
The Row House
2128 Frederick Douglass Boulevard
New York, NY 10026
(212) 256-0019
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