I was invited to sample the traditional American grill fare and classic steakhouse cuts at Bobby Van’s Grill on 50th. During my first visit as their guest, I was handed a printed page with what they called their “Prix Fixe” menu  instead of their full menu to select from as that’s what I was told they were offering media. Odd, I thought, how could I review the offerings if I didn’t get to sample them?

After voicing my concern, I was invited back. I am so glad I did, as the food I tried from the regular menu is worth touting. (Oddly the same crusty waiter still had a bit of attitude toward me as “press.”)

We began by sharing the crab cake, crusty on the outside, almost all-crab inside ($21.95). The app portion is one cake served with a mustard remoulade sauce. A worthy choice. A glass of the Comte Jean Marechal Sancerre ’12 ($18.50) Loire, France worked well with the crab cake and both salads.

The salads are unusual, tasty and almost a meal in themselves. Harry’s chopped salad ($20.95) — named for billionaire Harry Helmsley who loved the salad — has shrimp, bacon, string beans, tomatoes, red onions and roasted red pepper, all in shallot vinaigrette. The most unusual one is their crispy artichokes and fresh green salad ($15.95), with more crispy artichokes than we could consume, mixed in a shallot vinaigrette with frisee and topped with shaved parmesan. This and a glass of wine could suffice for me as a pre-theatre meal!

I highly recommend the tender and moist, tamarind-glazed Chilean seabass ($39.95) in a white truffle, miso fish broth with bok choy and shitake mushrooms. And, I also recommend the gargantuan rib steak ($52.95), perfectly cooked as requested, crusty on the outside, red and juicy in. Wished I had a dog to bring the meaty bone to!  We matched the steak to a glass of premium cabernet from Heitz Cellar, Napa Valley ’08 ($29.75).

For dessert, we sampled the decaden 21 layer crepe cake and chocolate truffle cake ($11 each). But were way too happily satiated to truly enjoy them.

– bonnie

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Bobby Van’s Grill
Midtown West
135 West 50th Street
New York, NY 10020
(212) 957-5050
Bobby Van's Grill on Urbanspoon