Anthos, New York City

Greek food is coming into its own, especially in New York City with the haute cuisine of Michael Psilakis (see-LAH-kees) at Anthos.

I recently met friends at the restaurant just off Fifth Avenue, for a multi-course meal that left us wanting to return.

We started with the chef’s raw meze, with each bite-size piece of raw seafood accompanied by contrasting bold flavors that exploded in the mouth.  My favorite appetizers, though, were the Smoked Octopus ($19) with baby fennel and lemon confit, and the ethereal  Sheep Milk Ricotta Dumplings with peekytoe crab, wild spinach, leek and feta ($18). The delicate dumplings literally liquefied as they hit the warmth of my mouth.

The composed Greek Salad ($16) was fine, although nothing out of the ordinary like the octopus and dumplings.

Oddly none of us were wild about the whole grilled loup de mare (also known as Branzini) with a medley of market vegetables ($32). Not that it was bad, but I’d recently had a mouthwatering tastier version at Avra, that and we ate every morsel of the saddle of lamb, the dish I’d recommend.

The tender slices of the saddle of lamb — with brussels sprouts, white beans, crisp lamb pastrami, potato and an egg ($37) — were cooked to perfection, exactly how we ordered.

Although we had no room, we did try two of the unusual Greek-flavored desserts: the Poached Seckel Pear — thassos sable, chocolate cream, olive ice cream, sandemans rainwater madeira  ($12) and the Beet and Yogurt — tahini sorbet, halvah crumble, orange, commandaria, st. john’s, cyprus ($12).  Interesting.

Being so enthralled with the delicious food and interesting table companions, I didn’t notice until I stood up to leave that at the table right next to us was a dear, friend who I hadn’t seen in years: Cookbook author Barbara Kafka having dinner with British art dealer, Andrew Wyld. I noticed that they too, had the octopus, and were served the lamb as we said our goodbyes!

– bonnie

Anthos
36 W. 52nd St., New York, NY 10019
212-582-6900